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Trip Blog
Edinburgh city guide
Edinburgh city break guide
Our essential travel guide to Edinburgh, including where to go, what to see, and how to get around Scotland's capital. By Helen Pickles.
Looming craggily over the city atop an extinct volcano, Edinburgh Castle is both a fortress and a royal palace
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This is a city perfect for browsing, sitting back, or just doing nothing but blessing your cleverness for finding this little place
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Mosey around the streets and you'll chance on a quirky shop, artisan deli, or laidback café
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The Pentland Hills: well-marked walks range from gentle strolls to a 10-mile traverse
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The changing of the guard at Holyrood Palace
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Why go?
The joy of Edinburgh is that you never need an excuse to visit. There is always something going on, something different to experience, something new to catch your eye. If you only think about the city at Festival time or Hogmanay, boy, are you missing out. You can get high just gazing at the architecture, from the craggy Castle to the mysteries of its Old Town medieval closes, from the Georgian splendour of the New Town to the contemporary tang of Leith. Then there’s the clutch of galleries – all nicely do-able in size – and fanfare of museums and attractions, offering a tantalising choice for even the pickiest family.
In truth, you don’t need to do the “arts-culture-history” thing to get a zing out of Edinburgh. Mosey around the streets – particularly just off-centre, say in Stockbridge or around Grassmarket – and you’ll chance on a quirky shop, artisan deli or laidback café. This is a city perfect for browsing, sitting back, or just doing nothing but blessing your cleverness for finding this little place. And did we mention food? There are five Michelin-starred restaurants alone, while drinking options range from whisky-fuddled pubs to designer bars.
Yes, it can get busy; yes, it can rain. But this city pushes so many buttons, you’d have to be a frigid Philistine to visit and remain unmoved.
When to go
You don’t go to Edinburgh for the weather. Perversely, having said that, the city’s atmospheric streets and dramatic skyline lend themselves to the darkling days of autumn or frosty mornings of winter when brisk walks to the Castle or Arthur’s Seat can be rewarded with body-warming drinks in the city’s many pubs and cafes. Should it rain (and it will), there are heaps of museums and galleries to escape to.
A must-see destination for foreign visitors, Edinburgh has no off-season (which is good as places are open year-round), though early spring can be slightly less busy. July and August, the place heaves as around a million Festival-goers swell the city to bursting point for the world’s biggest arts event. Fantastic if you love squeezing yourself into bars and cafes, and an atmosphere charged with electricity; hell if you want a romantic escape. Hogmanay is one big outdoors party: music, torches, fireworks, instant friendships.
Getting there
Trains
This is the nicest way to arrive, since you land slap-bang in the middle of the city – within walking distance, or a short taxi ride, of most hotels. The majority of sights are also walkable from the station[AP1] – Edinburgh Waverley, as opposed to Edinburgh Haymarket, which is the most central. East Coast (08457 225 225 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 08457 225 225 end_of_the_skype_highlighting, www.eastcoast.co.uk) operates frequent services from London King’s Cross and east-coast mainline stations, with the fastest journey from London taking less than 4hr 30min.
The fastest weekday journey from Edinburgh to London takes just four hours. Virgin (08457 55 33 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 08457 55 33 end_of_the_skype_highlighting, www.virgintrains.co.uk) covers routes from the Midlands and west coast, plus London Euston with a change at Penrith or Carlisle.
ScotRail’s Caledonian Sleeper (08457 55 00 33 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 08457 55 00 33 end_of_the_skype_highlighting; www.scotrail.co.uk) runs every night, except Saturday, from London Euston; passengers can stay onboard until 8am. ScotRail also runs trains from destinations within Scotland. From the Manchester area and North West use First TransPennine Express (0845 600 1671 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 0845 600 1671 end_of_the_skype_highlighting, www.tpexpress.co.uk). National Rail Enquiries – 08457 48 49 50 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 08457 48 49 50 end_of_the_skype_highlighting.
Flights
Services from more than 20 UK airports are provided by Bmi (0844 848 4888 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 0844 848 4888 end_of_the_skype_highlighting, www.flybmi.com), Bmibaby (0905 828 2828 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 0905 828 2828 end_of_the_skype_highlighting, 65p per minute, www.bmibaby.com), British Airways (0844 493 0787 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 0844 493 0787 end_of_the_skype_highlighting, www.ba.com), CityJet (0871 66 33 777 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 0871 66 33 777 end_of_the_skype_highlighting; www.cityjet.com), easyJet (0905 821 0905 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 0905 821 0905 end_of_the_skype_highlighting, 65p per minute; www.easyjet.com) and Flybe (0871 700 2000 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 0871 700 2000 end_of_the_skype_highlighting, www.flybe.co.uk).
Transfers
A taxi from the airport, seven miles west of the city, takes 25 minutes to the centre, and costs around £20. The Airlink 100 shuttle bus (0131 555 6363 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 0131 555 6363 end_of_the_skype_highlighting; www.flybybus.com) runs every 10 minutes and takes 30 minutes to Waverley railway station; £3.50 (£2 child) single, £6 (£3 child) return.
Getting around
Buses
Buses are frequent and simple to use, either £1.30 (70p child) single journey or £3.20 (£2 child) for a day pass offering unlimited travel. Buy tickets on-board or at Lothian Buses Travelshops (bus drivers cannot give change).
For longer stays, consider the Ridacard offering one week’s unlimited travel, adult £16, child £9. Available from Lothian Buses Travelshops (www.lothianbuses.com).
Taxis
These can be hailed in the street, but are pricey.
Trams
Don’t expect them anytime soon. The new tram system through the city, and linking Leith to the airport, is considerably overdue.
Edinburgh is compact and walkable but hilly. Plan your day so you’re not criss-crossing from Old Town (south of Princes Street) to New Town (north of Princes Street).
Avoid bringing a car. Parking is expensive, hard to find, and heavily policed – fines for incorrect/overdue parking are swiftly imposed.
Know before you go
Essential contacts
Visitor Information Centre (0845 22 55 121 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 0845 22 55 121 end_of_the_skype_highlighting, www.edinburgh.org), 3 Princes Street. Open Mon-Sat 9am-5pm (Sunday from 10am), Sept-June; Mon-Sat 9am-7pm (Sunday from 10am), July, August.
Festival tips
The Edinburgh Festival (www.edinburghfestivals.co.uk) is actually seven separate ones, spread over six weeks, starting in late July. Book accommodation early. Expect premium prices, opening hours to be extended, heaps of fun and not much sleep.
Undecided what Fringe Festival event to see? The Half-Price Hut beside the Visitor Information Centre, Princes Street, sells half-price tickets for same-day shows.
‘The List’ (www.list.co.uk) monthly listings magazine (weekly during Festival) gives a good steer on what’s happening and what’s hot; £2.50 from newsagents.
Remember you’re in Scotland; in summer, it’s as likely to rain as shine or blow a gale, all in the same day. Bring clothes for all seasons.
| Seattle - 5 Free things to do in Seattle
Thursday, June 30, 2011
Seattle is a spectacular place to visit: green, gorgeous and exciting. Sitting on the eastern shores of Puget Sound, Washington State’s largest city offers scenic views of the sound and snow-capped Olympic Mountains. Looking at scenery is only one of the many things visitors to Seattle can do. Seeing everything the Emerald City has to offer is a daunting task, not to mention expensive. But it doesn’t have to be that way. Seattle has many activities that don’t cost a penny. Here are five of them:
Pike Place Market
The Pike Place Market and the Space Needle are Seattle’s most famous attractions. It costs to visit the Space Needle, but people can visit the Pike Place Market for free. Market organizers say this iconic landmark draws about 10 million visitors a year, making it one of the state’s most popular attractions.
Colorful veggies on sale at the Pike Place Market.
Located in downtown Seattle at First Avenue and Pike Street, the market has been going strong since 1907 when it was established as a result of a consumer revolt against the high price of onions in grocery stores.
Today the market sells more than just onions. A hundred farmers arrange colorful vegetables and fruits so artistically, you’ll think you’re in an art gallery. And watch out for the flying fish! Pick out a fresh salmon from a bed of ice, then stand back as one fishmonger throws it to another behind the counter who will weigh and wrap it for you. The lower floors of the market are filled with shops selling funky jewelry, antique clothing and the like.
The market is open 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Sunday.
Walk by the Water
After the market, head down the hill to the waterfront. Ride a trolley for free along Alaskan Way or walk on the waterfront side lined with gift shops and seafood restaurants. Take a rest at Waterfront Park, a large deck that extends out over the water. The park offers panoramic views of Puget Sound with ferries running across it.
If you want a more nature-oriented walk, try Alki Beach in West Seattle for great views of the Seattle skyline.
Downtown Seattle viewed from Alki Beach.
The City of Seattle owns Alki Beach Park with its 2.5 miles of waterfront trails, starting at 1702 Alki Avenue SW. The entrance starts just after you exit the West Seattle Bridge onto Alki Avenue or drive a couple of miles to a small commercial district filled with restaurants, delis and coffee houses. Take time to walk on the beach in this historic community which got its start as a summer resort for early Seattle residents.
Ballard Locks
The Ballard Locks, known officially as the Hiram M. Chittenden Locks, are located in Seattle’s Scandinavian community where pleasure boats line up to travel through Ship Canal that connects Puget Sound with Lake Washington. The locks, operated by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, are on the National Register of Historic Places. They are open around the clock, but the grounds are open only between 7 a.m. and 9 p.m. Visitors can take a break from watching boats to watching Pacific salmon make the same trip via a fish ladder to their spawning grounds.
Visitors can also walk through the delightful Carl S. English Jr. Botanical Garden named in honor of the locks’ first horticulturist. The garden has more than 570 species of plants.
The locks are located at 3017 NW 54th Street.
Historic Seattle
Pioneer Square played an important part in Seattle’s history, and is a great place to view restored buildings that house professional offices, boutiques and trendy restaurants. The Underground Seattle tour starts here, but there’s a charge for that. Visitors instead should take in the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park at 319 Second Avenue South. The park, open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, pays tribute to the role Seattle played in the 1897 gold rush to the Klondike in Canada. Seattle was the departure point for prospectors headed north to make their fortunes. The National Park Service, which operates the facility, says an estimated 70,000 prospectors bought their provisions in Seattle before embarking on their sea road to riches. The museum hosts videos of this historic gold rush and gold panning demonstrations daily.
Museums
Seattle has numerous museums, all of which charge. However, many offer free admission days, which means you’ll need to plan ahead to make the most of these money-saving opportunities.For example, admission to the Seattle Art Museum is normally $15 for adults, but visit the museum on the first Thursday of the month, and you’ll get in free. Senior citizens get free admission on the first Friday of the month; the second Friday of the month is free to teens from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. The museum, located at 1300 First Avenue, has permanent collections of art from around the world, porcelains and textiles.Its sister museum, the Seattle Asian Art Museum, located at 1400 East Prospect Street, offers free admission to families on the first Saturday of the month as well as the Thursday and Friday free days. There’s also no cost to visit the museum on the second Thursday from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.
| Beautiful Budapest Beautiful, Bountiful Budapest
January 13th, 2011 . by Ralph Grizzle
Regarded as one of Europe’s most attractive cities, Budapest is beautiful no matter what time of year. Those on river cruises departing Budapest will find the Hungarian capital easy to get around and exciting to visit.
Situated on opposite sides of the Danube, Buda and Pest were united in the 19th century to form the Hungarian capital Budapest. The beginning or ending point for most Danube cruises, Budapest was once referred to as the “Queen of the Danube,” because of the city’s cultural significance at a time when Hungary was three times the size it is today.
On one side of the Danube, hilly Buda retains much of its Middle Age charm. Its cobbled streets and Gothic buildings have been well preserved. On the other side of the river, Pest is the thriving city center.
 River cruisers typically dock on the Buda side, within walking distance of Castle Hill. If you prefer, there is a funicular that will take you up to the site. Either way, you’ll enjoy fantastic views of the Danube and Pest.
You could easily spend three to four hours on Castle Hill, visiting the museums, galleries, shops and cafes. But don’t spend so long that you miss Pest.
At the foot of Castle Hill, near the funicular station, the Chain Bridge connects Buda and Pest. Walk across it, and admire the views, before reaching the city on the other side of the Danube. The building directly in front of you, by the way, is the Four Seasons Hotel. Stroll inside and admire the grand lobby.
Ask directions to Vaci Utca, the pedestrian-only shopping street, just a few minutes walk away from the Four Seasons. At Vörösmarti ter, a large and lively square, stop for coffee and and a slice of the moist plum pie known as zilvás lepény at Cafe Garbeaud.
The well-known landmark has stood here since 1870. Because of its popularity and that fact that it has become a tourist attraction, Cafe Garbeaud has lost some of its charm. Nonetheless, it’s worth a peek inside the “filled to capacity” cafe. There are cafes that arguably are more enjoyable in Budapest, including Cafe Pierrot at Castle Hill.
From Cafe Garbeaud, stroll down Vaci Utca and go as far, if you wish, to the Market Hall, where you can pick up your souvenir paprika — or skip the stroll and board the UNESCO World Heritage Millennium Underground Railway, the first on the European continent.
The railway is a mix of metro and amusement ride, with its cute cars snf noisy, curved tracks.
Exit at Oktogon square and walk up Budapest’s most famous avenue, Andrassy, to the House of Terror, situated in the former headquarters for the secret police of both the Nazi and Communist governments.
One of Europe’s most emotionally moving museums, the House of Terror depict the horrors against Hungary during the Nazi and Communist regimes.
You could walk from the House of Terror along Andrássy to Hero Square and its monuments that were built in 1896 to commemorate the 1000th anniversary of the arrival of the Hungarians. Should you visit Hero Square, you may also want to stroll through the City Park, situated adjacent to the square.
At the City Park, the Gundel is perhaps the most famous restaurant in Budapest. If you’re not up for a full meal, try the Gundel Palacsinta, the century-old pancake that has a filled with rum, raisin, lemon rind and walnuts, served with a chocolate sauce – baked and flambéed upon request.
Head back to Andrássy to stroll along the street that is a World Heritage site itself. Heading back in the direction of the city center, you’ll pass the Opera House and other attractions as well as shops, restaurants and bars.
Stop for lunch along the way, and try the Fogas, which is Lake Balatan pike-perch, breaded and fried or grilled. The Fisherman’s soup (halaszle), another favorite, is a rich mixture of several kinds of poached fish, tomatoes, green peppers and paprika.
From the city center, a free water shuttle will take you back to the Buda side, within easy walking distance of your ship. | Key West
South Florida's Key West feels a bit like its own island nation, with a tropical climate, plenty of local artists, unique Victorian-Caribbean architecture and an astonishing population of enormous birds. Situated where the Gulf of Mexico and Atlantic Ocean converge, much of Key West's island bounty comes from the sea -- in the form of dinner-to-be, maritime history, water-based leisure activities, ecological splendor and Caribbean breezes. Back onshore, there's Old Town, the historic area that President Truman and Ernest Hemingway called home. You can do the "window shop key lime pie on a stick chomp" down well-trodden Duval Street, ducking into art galleries and boutiques, before ending in Mallory Square for a hype-busting sunset. Sure, there's a lot to do in Key West -- and it's crowded -- but a quick turn down a palm tree-lined street or into an exotic plant-filled courtyard, and you can find ... island paradise. |
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Day One: Start off on Duval Street, the main drag, and wander the streets of Old Town Key West, popping into a few art galleries for an ogle or a haggle. As you stroll, enjoy Key lime pie dipped in chocolate on a stick or a warm cookie from Cafe de Paris (106 Duval). Chuckle (or scowl) at the silly T-shirts displayed in the windows of tacky tourist shops. Drop in for a tour of the Hemingway Home and its cats. When you realize that all this walking and touring has made you hungry, head off the beaten path a touch and grab a wooden table at Santiago's Bodega, a small, friendly place serving an assortment of tapas and a huge selection of wine (reservations are recommended). End the night with some live music at the Hog's Breath Saloon, Sloppy Joe's, the Bull & Whistle, the Green Parrot Bar, Captain Tony's or all of the above.
Day Two: Pack a cooler and shoot about 30 miles up US-1 to Bahia Honda National Park, stopping on the way for fresh-roasted coffee at Baby's Coffee, an art gallery/coffeehouse located at mile marker 15. Don’t forget to look out both sides of car as you fly northeast up the highway -- that's the Gulf of Mexico on your left, the Atlantic on your right. After a lazy day at Bahia Honda's beach and a brisk walk along the overseas railway bridge (to the gap and back), it's time to head back to town. Make a short stop on the return ride for some pizza and beer at the easy-to-miss Keys establishment, the No Name Pub ("A nice place ... if you can find it"). Back in Key West, wander down to Mallory Square with a locally rolled cigar in hand or mouth in time for the sunset and entertainers. Wait until the crush of cruise ship traffic clears out, plop down at a barstool by the water, and consume a stacked grouper sandwich, lemony oysters and a cold beer.
Day Three: Get out on the open water for the first half of the day by either chartering a pleasure boat (scenic sail, lunch, snorkel), hiring a captain for some hardcore fishing, or exploring the fast-growing mangrove islands and hidden waterways by sea kayak (rent your own or take a guided tour). A decent guide will help you spot tarpon, eel, turtles, barracuda, crabs, sharks, starfish and incredibly large marine birds (you don't really need help spotting the giant pelican or egret). A trip out to the Dry Tortugas might allow for you to snorkel a shipwreck, lungs straining to allow a last look at a five-foot-long, 200-pound goliath grouper. If you're enamored of the water even after you're back on shore, head to the small but friendly Key West Aquarium to visit some nurse sharks and the mesmerizing dogheaded jawfish, whose act of swallowing then spitting out fish tank pebbles remains endlessly diverting. How about some Cuban food tonight? El Siboney is a great bet, with a stacked menu of reasonably priced roast meat dishes, plus paella and sandwiches.
 Learn more about this itinerary with our Key West Attractions.
--written by Dan Askin |
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| 36 Hours in Key West
36 Hours in Key West, Fla.
By SARAH WILDMAN
Published: January 6, 2011
KEY WEST, haven to artists and writers, chefs and hippies, is somehow more Caribbean than Floridian. The indie-minded transplants work hard to keep it that way. One-speed bicycles weave their way through colorful village streets, crammed with as many chickens as cars. Happy hour blends into dinner. And everything is oriented around the ocean, from the fish market-driven menus and the nautical-inspired art, to the sunrise worshipers who gather each dawn and the tipplers who wave goodbye at sunset. Be careful or you might just catch what islanders call “Keys disease” — a sudden desire to cut ties with home and move there.
Friday 4 p.m.
1) DITCH THE CAR
As any self-respecting bohemian local knows, the best way to get around Key West is on two wheels. Bike rental companies offer drop-off service to many hotels. Two reliable outfits are Eaton Bikes (830 Eaton Street; 305-294-8188 ; eatonbikes.com) and Re-Cycle (5160 Overseas Highway; U.S. 1; 305-292-3336 ; recyclekw.com), with rentals for about $18 for one day, $10 for each additional. Orient yourself by biking over to the Truman Annex, a palm-lined oasis of calm made up of two-story whitewashed buildings that surrounds the Little White House (111 Front Street; 305-294-9911 ; trumanlittlewhitehouse.com). 7 p.m.
2) CLEANSE THE PALATE
Key West chefs pride themselves on a culinary philosophy of simple cooking and fresh ingredients. A perfect example is the Flaming Buoy Filet Co. (1100 Packer Street; 305-295-7970 ; theflamingbuoy.com), a year-old nouveau seafood restaurant owned and run by two Cincinnati transplants, Fred Isch and his partner, Scot Forste. The 10 rustic wood tables are hand-painted in orange and yellow; the lights are low and the crowd amiable, skewing slightly older. This is home-cooking, island style. Favorites include a black bean soup, swirled with Cheddar cheese, sour cream and cilantro ($9), and the fresh catch of the day ($24), which is served with a broccoli cake and tasty mashed potatoes. 9 p.m.
3) SMALL WORLD
You can’t bike a block on this island without bumping into a would-be Gauguin wielding a palette and paintbrush. There’s an outsize and vibrant arts scene that’s evident at places like Lucky Street Gallery (1130 Duval Street; 305-294-3973 ; luckystreetgallery.com) and the Gallery on Greene (606 Greene Street; 305-294-1669 ; galleryongreene.com). For a warm introduction to the scene, head to the Armory, a rifle storage house built in 1903 and recently converted into the Studios of Key West (600 White Street; 305-296-0458 ; tskw.org), an airy, art-filled space with rotating exhibitions, evening folk concerts, talks by artists-in-residence and drop-in art classes. Expect to find your barista there, and the bike rental guy and the woman who will sell you a T-shirt tomorrow. It’s a small town. 11 p.m.
4) MIX IT UP
While Key West night life has long been synonymous with boozy karaoke and mediocre margaritas, new watering holes like the tiny Orchid Bar (1004 Duval Street; 305-296-9915 ; orchidkeyinn.com) are quietly moving in a more sophisticated direction. Bartenders there take mixology seriously. Try the St.-Germain 75, with Hendrick’s Gin, St.-Germain, fresh lemon juice and Champagne ($12). This Deco-cool sliver of a space overlooks an illuminated pool and draws a mellow crew. Saturday
8:15 a.m.
5) SALUTE THE SUN
Every morning, a dozen spiritual seekers — an eclectic mix of tattooed artists, elementary-school teachers and others — assemble at Fort Zachary Taylor State Park for Yoga on the Beach (305-296-7352 ; yogaonbeach.com). Nancy Curran and Don Bartolone, yogis from Massachusetts, teach energetic vinyasa-style yoga in a clearing of pines, facing the sea. The $18 drop-in fee includes state park entrance fee, muslin dropcloths and yoga mats. 11 a.m.
6) A TASTE OF FRANCE
An island of transplants means there is plenty to sample from the world over. Craving France? Stop at Bahama Village’s newest import, La Crêperie Key West (300 Petronia Street; 305-517-6799 ; lacreperiekeywest.com), where Yolande Findlay and Sylvie Le Nouail, Brittany transplants, serve crepes in an open kitchen. Start with a savory crepe like ratatouille ($10.25), then move on to something sweet like red velvet with dark Belgian chocolate, strawberries and English custard ($9.95). 1 p.m.
7) ISLAND STYLE
Just because islanders pride themselves on being casual doesn’t mean they don’t want to look great. Bésame Mucho (315 Petronia Street; 305-294-1928 ; besamemucho.net) is an old-world general store packed with everything from Belgian linen to Dr. Hauschka skin care, to delicate baubles like tiny beaded pyrite necklaces. Across the street is Wanderlust kw (310 Petronia Street; 305-509-7065 ; wanderlustkw.com), a boutique that opened in July 2010. It’s stocked with well-priced dresses (a navy blue 1940s-style slip dress with puffed sleeves was a mere $68), and whimsical watercolors of Key West houses by local artists ($15). For swank décor, check out Jan George Interior Design (600 Frances Street; 305-509-8449 ; jangeorge.com), a furniture shop that carries dreamy stark-white couches from the Italian line Gervasoni. The owners, Jan Oostdyk and his spouse, George Rutgers, landed as tourists from the Netherlands and never left. 5 p.m.
8) DRINKS AT SUNSET
Skip the hustle of Mallory Square and work your way through the white tablecloth dining room to Louie’s Backyard Afterdeck Bar (700 Waddell Avenue; 305-294-1061 ; louiesbackyard.com), which has a large wood-planked patio that faces the ocean and the setting sun. A gregarious crowd of artists and New England snowbirds gathers daily. It’s like an outdoor Cheers. 7 p.m.
9) DINING ON DUVAL
Since opening in 2002, the restaurant Nine One Five (915 Duval Street; 305-296-0669 ; 915duval.com) has gotten high marks for its Asian-inspired seafood and ambience — a large white porch that’s great for people-watching. Last winter, the owner, Stuart Kemp, turned the second floor into the Point5 lounge, serving smaller bites like grilled snapper tacos ($15) and stick-to-your-ribs mac and cheese ($12) to a younger crowd. If you stick around after dinner, Point5 becomes a party, with D.J. George spinning funk and soul and the island’s gay and straight worlds dancing together under filament lights strung outdoors. 9 p.m.
10) DRAG SHOW
Drag shows are Key West’s patrimony. Still at the top of his game is Randy Roberts, performing as Bette Midler, Cher and Lady Gaga at La Te Da (1125 Duval Street; 305-296-6706 ; lateda.com; $26 admission). After the delicious one-hour drag show, hoof it down to Porch (429 Caroline Street No. 2; 305-517-6358 ; theporchkw.com), a wine and artisanal beer bar that opened in July on the luminous first floor of a Victorian mansion, just off Duval. Chris Schultz, a former travel writer from Minnesota, installed a black banquette, painted the walls a soothing gray and invited an eager crowd of 20- and 30-somethings who moved to Key West to give island life a go. Sunday
11 a.m.
11) HAIR OF THE DOG
Late night? Sarabeth’s (530 Simonton Street; 305-293-8181 ; sarabethskeywest.com), housed in what was the island’s first synagogue, serves omelets and tropical juices that are the ideal detox. Can’t be bothered to dress? Bad Boy Burrito (1220 1/2 Simonton; 305-292-2697 ; badboyburrito.com) will deliver a kobe beef burrito ($8) or fish taco ($9) to you, poolside. 1 p.m.
12) SEAWORTHY PURSUITS
With all the shopping and eating, it is easy to forget why you’re really here: to get off the street and onto the water. Lazy Dog (5114 Overseas Highway; 305-295-9898 ; lazydog.com) offers two- and four-hour kayaking or two-hour paddleboard tours through crystal clear coastal waters and into the deep green waterways of the gnarled mangrove forests. Or if you’re just looking to dip a toe in the sea, bike over to Clarence S. Higgs Memorial Beach, a strip of sand in front of the genial beach bar restaurant Salute! (1000 Atlantic Boulevard; 305-292-1117 ; saluteonthebeach.com), rent a beach chair for $10, and kick back. You’re on island time, after all. IF YOU GO
Alexander’s Guest House (1118 Fleming Street; 305-294-9919 ; alexanderskeywest.com) is a stylish bed-and-breakfast that’s straight-friendly, but attracts a primarily gay and lesbian crowd. The 17 rooms, in a gorgeously refurbished 1901 house, start at $175.
Once used as the base of operations during the Cuban Missile Crisis, Casa Marina, a Waldorf Astoria Resort (1500 Ranch Avenue; 88-303-5717; casamarinaresort.com) was radically modernized in 2007 and is now part of the Waldorf-Astoria Collection. The 311 rooms start at $229. | | |
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