River cruising: the Vikings are coming – in their 21st-century longships

Nearly a million people a year are now booking a river cruise – which is why one of the world's biggest operators is planning to add a dozen new ships by 2013.

Viking River Cruises, one of the world’s largest specialist river-cruise operators, has invested £80 million in new vessels

It’s a brisk March day in Amsterdam and I’m on the water, at the elegant bow of Odin, a slim, 450ft river cruiser, admiring her mirror image in the form of her sister ship, Idun, which is moored opposite. This pair of “Viking longships”, named after Norse gods, along with two identical vessels, Freya and Njord, are a far cry from the 10th-century Viking versions, built for war. The streamlined vessels are among the slick new designs bringing river cruising into the 21st century.

The 95-cabin ships are part of an £80 million investment by Viking River Cruises, one of the world’s largest specialist river-cruise operators. It is adding 12 of them – six this year and six next – to its fleet, to make a total of 31 by 2013. The expansion is a measure of the astonishing growth in demand for holidays by river.

Not long ago, there was little river cruising beyond the Nile and the Mississippi. Today, nearly a million people take to the river each year – compared with 670,000 a decade ago. Last year some 80,000 Britons took a river cruise. And while Nile cruises have been badly affected by the political turmoil in Egypt, the range of alternatives has expanded to include trips on the Yangtze, the Irrawaddy, the Volga and the Murray, in Australia.

Central Europe’s maritime map was transformed two decades ago when the 106-mile Main-Danube canal linked the North Sea to the Black Sea. Along with the Mekong, Europe is where river cruising has grown fastest in the past two years, partly because it is a “safe” region with a rich history. Other operators launching new river ships in Europe this year include AMA Waterways, Avalon Waterways and Scenic Tours.

It is on the majestic Rhine and the “blue” Danube that the Viking longships Odin, Idun, Freya and Njord will be sailing – although so high is demand that they are almost fully booked in the main summer season.

What is immediately striking about the longship is its layout: the Norwegian designers, Petter Yran and Bjorn Storbraaten, have made it a priority to give passengers as much light, sense of space and access to fresh air as possible.

In the two-deck atrium, a display of live moss and flowers on the lower level is set against a curved glass stairway, while upstairs are a small library and two computers for guests. Electric doors open on to exterior stairways leading to the sun deck above, which has a giant chess set, a golf-putting area, shuffleboard, solar panels and a little herb garden. Like other Viking ships I know, these newcomers are clean, tidy and free of clutter.

Though Odin’s beam is just 37ft – the maximum permitted in the Rhine and Danube locks – her rounded bows allow room for a splendid terrace, the Aquavit, which forms part of an indoor-outdoor lounge with retractable glass doors, where you can eat, drink or simply relish the view – in my case, the twinkling lights of night-time Amsterdam.

The most spacious of the 95 cabins are two 440 sq ft “Explorer” suites, which have a wraparound balcony with a 270-degree view, a living area with sofa, chairs and table and a bedroom. Although they sit at the stern, there is little noise or vibration, even at full speed – thanks to the hybrid diesel-electric propulsion system which, as well as being energy-efficient, is quiet.

Three quarters of cabins have a balcony, whether full or French-style (with glass doors and just enough space outside to put your toes); only the 150 sq ft “Standard Staterooms” have just a window. The full balconies, however, take a little space away from the bathrooms, which, to say the least, are compact.

All rooms feature down bedding, bathrobes and slippers, bottled water replenished daily, a fridge, a sophisticated television and entertainment system, movable bedside lights, good under-bed luggage storage, plenty of “soft-close” drawer space, an illuminated wardrobe with sliding doors, a safe, a satellite phone and audio sets for shore excursions. Bathrooms have opaque-glass sliding doors, heated flooring and L’Occitane toiletries.

The rooms are arranged sensibly and decorated in restful beiges, browns, blues and greys, with cherrywood cabinetry and soft lighting – but soundproofing could be better.

The longships do most of their mileage at night, mooring up by day so passengers can explore. Their routes take in medieval towns such as Miltenberg, which has Germany’s oldest inn, sights such as Bamberg Cathedral and cities such as Vienna and Bratislava.

Unlike many ocean cruises, river cruises are all about visiting places en route, so other “entertainment” is minimal – there might be early-morning stretching on deck, classes in regional cookery or crafts, or small-scale classical or folk performances related to the local area.

Also given a local slant on the longships is the food – Viking has upgraded its menus lately, in quality and choice. You can eat in the sleek main restaurant, with floor-to-ceiling windows, crisp white tablecloths and a five-course evening menu, or there’s lighter fare on the Aquavit Terrace. Beer, house wine and soft drinks are included during lunch and dinner. The staff is professional and attentive – and drawn from the firm’s 1,800 employees around the world rather than from agencies.

River cruising for beginners

Rivers lead you into the heart of a country, and to fascinating destinations that can’t be reached by ocean-going ships. For the countries through which they run, they are an economic lifeline. For the holidaymaker, they can offer peace, romance or adventure (without the danger that many associate with the open sea).

River ships provide an antidote to large, ocean-going cruise liners. They are all about lazy afternoons spent on “rivertime” – aboard anything from a waterbus to a floating palace – and they really do glide rather than sail.

River ships run to no more than four decks – thanks, in part, to the restrictions placed on a vessel’s dimensions by locks and bridges. Almost all are built on a monohull arrangement. Because of their long, “low-slung” design, public space may be limited to a restaurant and a main lounge.

On board, you’re unlikely to find casinos, bingo, cabaret or art auctions. When your ship docks, you simply walk off it (or across several neighbouring ships when they are tied up together in busy places such as Budapest). I’ve never come across a queue to get into town while on a river cruise, and when the ship is moored you can come and go as you please.

During evenings and early mornings it can get chilly when the vessel is moving, even in hot climates. Take a windproof, plus trousers, a hat and comfortable shoes for wearing on deck and shore excursions (avoid heels: many older European cities and towns have cobblestone streets). The dress code in the evening, whether aboard or on land (some itineraries include overnight stops), may be a little smarter than by day.